Shimanami Kaido
- Publicado el : 05/07/2017
- Por : J.L.
- Youtube
En bici por el Mar Seto
Te mostramos por qué la ruta para bicicletas Setouchi Shimanami Kaido es llamada la tierra santa del ciclista.
El Shimanami Kaido es una ruta de alta calidad con un canal para bicicletas que comienza desde la aldea de Onomichi (Hiroshima) en la isla de Honshu y llega hasta Imabari (Ehime) en la isla de Shikoku, al sur.
Esta ruta ciclista abarca 70 kilómetros y conecta seis islas del mar interior de Seto. Es perfecta para pedalear mientras se contemplan los magníficos paisajes y se disfruta de la brisa del mar.
Hay 14 estaciones de alquiler de bicicletas en cada una de las islas. Los ciclistas profesionales pueden hacer la ruta en tres o cuatro horas, pero es posible hacerla con más tiempo y tal vez pasar una noche en una de las islas, o detenerse para explorar la zona y probar las especialidades locales. En todas las islas hay muchos campings y hoteles donde quedarse.
Tu propia ruta
El punto de partida, la ciudad de Onomichi, es famosa gracias a la película Cuentos de Tokio de Ozu Yasujiro. Cerca del puerto se pueden alquilar bicicletas a 1.000 yenes por día. También se alquilan en Onomichi U2, un negocio especialmente diseñado para ciclistas, donde también hay alojamiento, restaurante, taller y alquiler de bicicletas profesionales de último modelo por 4.000 yenes el día. Se puede alquilar una bicicleta en un sitio y devolverla en otro.
De isla en isla
Estas son las islas que se visitan con la ruta Shimanami Kaido:
Mukaishima
Una vez con tu bici puedes ir a la isla Mukai. Es aconsejable hacer esta parte en barco desde el muelle frente a la estación Onomichi (el paseo en barco es de 5 minutos y cuesta 100 yenes +10 yenes la bicicleta). Si quieres algo de comer puedes ir a la histórica panadería Sumida que existe desde 1916. Este es el punto de partida de la ruta en bicicleta. Sólo tienes que seguir la línea azul.
Innoshima
Cruza el puente de dos pisos y de 1.270 metros de largo que va desde Mukaishima hasta Innoshima. Innoshima es famosa por sus naranjas hassaku (una variedad de naranja japonesa del tamaño de un pomelo). La isla originalmente estuvo habitada en el siglo XIV por una familia de piratas: los Murakami. Si tienes tiempo visita el castillo de la familia, único en Japón, pues sus dos torres son de diferentes formas y colores. Prueba el hassaku daifuku (naranja hassaku envuelta en shiro an, pasta de frijol blanco y mochi).
Ikuchijima
Cruza el puente de Ikuchi y llega hasta la isla de Ikuchijima, la isla de los limones y la pesca del pulpo. Aquí puedes elegir entre ir al norte o al sur. Ambos caminos rodean la costa con palmeras y ambiente tropical y por lo general y son bastante planos. El camino del norte tiene más lugares para visitar, como por ejemplo el templo budista Kojo-ji de la escuela Sodo que tiene una hermosa pagoda de tres pisos y una vista panorámica del mar interior de Seto.
Puedes refrescarte y descansar en la heladería Dolce que tiene sorbetes de frutas regionales como el limón de Ikuchijima. En varios restaurantes locales puedes probar el pulpo preparado de mil maneras diferentes. Descubre las veinte esculturas contemporáneas al aire libre.
Omishima
Aquí se llega al atractivo puente cableado Tatara Bridge y a la prefectura de Ehime. Omishima es la isla más grande del Shimanami Kaido. Es llamada la isla de los kami (dioses) debido a la presencia del Santuario Oyamazumi, el santuario sintoísta dedicado al hermano de Amaterasu, una figura importante de la mitología japonesa que protege a los marineros y soldados. Muchos líderes militares han hecho ofrendas de armaduras en este santuario buscando protección. El 80% de la armadura histórica del patrimonio cultural de Japón se conserva en este santuario, incluyendo la de Minamoto no Yoritomo (1147-1199).
No dejes de ver el árbol sagrado de alcanfor que tiene unos 2.600 años. Aquí hay muchas alternativas de alojamiento, desde ryokan hasta camping, como el Shimanami Fureai Koryukan, una antigua escuela primaria remodelada para ofrecer alojamiento barato. No te pierdas las aguas termales del Tatara onsen, el lugar perfecto para relajarse después de un duro día de ciclismo.
Hakatajima
La pequeña isla de Hakatajima es famosa por la sal de Hakata. Esta isla se puede atravesar rápidamente o se puede hacer un recorrido de 17 kilómetros para visitar los diferentes puertos pesqueros. También puedes admirar la Hirakiyama, una montaña de 149 metros de altura con una vista panorámica de 360 °. La isla también es conocida por sus flores de cerezo en primavera. No dejes de probar el ramen de sal de Hakata en el restaurante Sanwa.
Oshima
Después de Hakatajima viene la última isla, Oshima. Verás una ruta que pasa por todo el centro de la isla, otra que va al este y otra al oeste. La ruta completa es de unos de 35 km. En el parque Yoshiumi hay unas 3.500 rosas que florecen de mayo a diciembre. El parque de observación de Kirosan está en una montaña de 307 metros de altura y tiene una magnífica vista del estrecho de Kurushima. Esta parte es para los ciclistas más experimentados.
En Yoshimi ikiikikan puedes disfrutar de una deliciosa barbacoa de mariscos, pesca del día. Por último, cruza el puente de Kurushima Kaikyo, que consta de tres puentes colgantes y tiene cuatro kilómetros. Puedes apreciar la belleza de las islas de Setouchi a 65 metros sobre el nivel del mar, como si fueras un pájaro.
Por último llegas a Imabari donde podrás devolver la bicicleta en el Sunrise Itoyama al pie del puente o en la la estación JR Imabari, o en la tienda Giant en la estación (si la alquilaste en Onomichi U2). Los autobuses hacen el trayecto entre Imabari y Onomichi en una hora y media (2.250 yenes), o a Fukuyama o Hiroshima. También puedes hacer la ruta en la dirección opuesta, empezando en Imabari y terminando en Onomichi.
The route passes through six islands: Mukaishima, Innoshima, and Ikuchijima in Hiroshima prefecture, then Omishima, Hakatajima, and Oshima in Ehime prefecture. These islands are linked by seven majestic bridges, including the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge, the world's first triple suspension bridge at 4,100 meters long. Each bridge offers exceptional panoramic views of the Inland Sea and surrounding islands.
The special feature of this route is its accessibility. Unlike most Japanese highways, the Shimanami Kaido has specially designed lanes for cyclists, marked by a continuous blue line along its entire length. This allows travelers to concentrate on the beauty of the scenery as it passes before their eyes, rather than on orientation.
Experienced cyclists can cover the entire route in 3 to 4 hours, while visitors wishing to take full advantage of the experience will take a full day, or even several days, to explore the cultural and natural riches of the islands crossed.
How to get to Onomichi and prepare your cycling adventure
Onomichi, the usual departure point for the Shimanami Kaido, is easily accessible from all major Japanese cities. From Hiroshima, allow around 1h20 by local train via Mihara station. If you're coming from Tokyo, Osaka or Kyoto, first take the Shinkansen to Fukuyama, then the local train (20 minutes) to Onomichi.
Once in Onomichi, this picturesque port town is well worth a visit. Famous for its many temples linked by a pilgrimage path and steep alleyways offering breathtaking sea views, Onomichi was the setting for Ozu Yasujirô's film "Tokyo Story." Don't miss the Onomichi Cat Walk, a winding trail that takes you through the town and its many felines.
Explore Shimanami Kaido and discover its treasures!
Before starting your Shimanami Kaido adventure, you'll need to rent a bike. You have several options:
- The 14 official rental stations along the route offer standard bikes at 1,000 yen per day (with a 1,000 yen deposit).
- Onomichi U2, a modern facility housed in a former shipping warehouse, offers high-end professional bikes from 4,000 yen. This unique venue also includes accommodation where you can sleep with your bike, a restaurant and a repair shop.
- For added convenience, electric-assist bicycles are available for 1,500 yen for 6 hours, ideal for tackling bridge climbs without excessive effort.
To reach Mukaishima Island from Onomichi: Take a ferry from the pier opposite the station (5-minute trip for 100 yen, plus 10 yen for the bike). It's on this first island that the bike path officially begins, indicated by a blue line that you'll follow along the way.
The islands and attractions of Shimanami Kaido
Each island on the Shimanami Kaido has its own character and unique attractions, offering travelers an immersion in authentic rural and maritime Japan.
Mukaishima, the first stop on your journey, welcomes you with its peaceful ambience. Don't miss the historic Sumida bakery, founded in 1916, for an invigorating breakfast before continuing on your way.
Innoshima, linked to Mukaishima by a 1,270-meter double-decker bridge, is known for two specialties: hassaku oranges (a grapefruit-sized variety) and its historical pirate heritage. Suigun Castle, built in 1983, houses a museum dedicated to the Murakami naval clan, active in the region between the 14th and 16th centuries. Another local curiosity is hassaku daifuku, a delicious pastry in which orange is wrapped in white bean paste and mochi.
Ikuchijima is nicknamed "Lemon Island" and is famous for its octopus fishing. There are two ways to get there, from the north or south, both along the palm-fringed sea. The north offers more attractions, notably the Kojo-ji temple with its three-story pagoda and panoramic sea view. For those with a sweet tooth, the Dolce ice cream parlor offers sorbets made with local fruits, including Ikuchijima lemon.
Omishima, the course's largest island, can be reached via the magnificent Tatara cable-stayed bridge. The island is dominated by the Ôyamazumi-jinja shrine, dedicated to the brother of Amaterasu, protective deity of sailors and soldiers. This shrine is home to 80% of Japan's historic cultural heritage, including that of Minamoto no Yoritomo (1147-1199). To relax after your exertions, the onsen of Tatara Onsen awaits you.
Hakatajima, a small island famous for its high-quality salt, can be quickly crossed or explored via a 17 km circuit around its fishing ports. Mount Hirakiyama (149 m) offers 360° panoramic views.
Oshima, the last island before Imabari, offers several itineraries, including a complete 35 km tour. In Yoshiumi Park, 3,500 roses bloom from May to December. For experienced cyclists, Mount Kirosan (307 m) offers an exceptional panorama of the Kurushima Strait. From here, you can take the Kurushima Kaikyô Bridge, comprising three suspension bridges totaling four kilometers in length, 65 meters above the sea.
Route options and bike hire
The Shimanami Kaido offers great flexibility in the organization of your cycling trip, accommodating both seasoned sportsmen and amateurs wishing to enjoy the scenery at their own pace.
Several route options are available:
- The complete route (70 km) from Onomichi to Imabari is accessible in one day for trained cyclists (4-5 hours of effective pedaling).
- The same route spread over two days, with an overnight stay on one of the islands, ideal for enjoying the attractions to the full.
- Partial tours, visiting only certain islands and then returning to your starting point.
- The reverse itinerary, from Imabari to Onomichi (more difficult at first, due to the steep climbs near Imabari).
The route is particularly well laid out for cyclists:
- A blue line painted on the ground guides you along the route.
- Signposts indicate the remaining distances to Imabari.
- "Cycling oases" provide refreshments and air for tires.
- An assistance service (Wakka) is available in case of mechanical problems or fatigue.
Discover the landscapes of the Seto Sea!
Accommodation and local gastronomy along the route
One of the treasures of the Shimanami Kaido is the opportunity to stay on the islands and discover the local gastronomy, for a complete immersion in the culture of this maritime region.
A variety of accommodation options allow you to create a tailor-made itinerary:
- Traditional ryokan offer an authentic experience with tatami mats, futons and sometimes thermal baths (onsen).
- Modern hotels in Imabari or Onomichi offer all the comforts of the West.
- Budget inns offer affordable accommodation.
- Yubune on Ikuchijima, a public bath that also offers rooms where cyclists can keep their bikes, offers an immersion in local life.
- For a more luxurious experience, LEMON FARM GLAMPING Shimanami on Ikuchijima offers eight glamping facilities overlooking the sea.
- Campsites are also available on each island for travellers on a tight budget.
- The unusual HOTEL CYCLE at Onomichi U2 lets you check in with your bike and even bring it into your room.
Local gastronomy is another highlight of the trip, with each island having its own specialities:
- Citrus fruits are omnipresent: hassaku oranges from Innoshima, lemons from Ikuchijima, mikan mandarins... They can be enjoyed fresh or processed into desserts, juices and even beer.
- Innoshima's hassaku daifuku, where the orange is wrapped in white bean paste and mochi.
- Octopus from Ikuchijima, prepared in a variety of ways in local restaurants.
- Hakata salt, used in many specialties such as salt ramen.
- Lemon nabe, a photogenic dish from Ikuchijima where fresh ingredients from the sea are covered with a multitude of lemons.
Practical tips to make the most of your experience
To ensure that your adventure on the Shimanami Kaido is a success, here are a few practical tips to help you make the most of it:
When to go?
- The best periods are spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November), when temperatures are mild and the sky is generally clear.
- Avoid summer (June-August), which can be very hot and humid, making physical exertion more difficult.
- Winter can be cool, but still passable, with the advantage of fewer visitors.
- Check the weather forecast before you leave, even if it's not always reliable in the long term in this maritime region.
A few tips:
- If you're not an experienced cyclist, practice a little before you go.
- Use the luggage delivery service (takkyubin) to travel light.
- Book your accommodation in advance, especially on weekends and during vacation periods.
- Plan regular breaks to take in the sights.
- Follow the blue line painted on the ground, which will guide you along the route.
- Follow the Japanese highway code: drive on the left and moderate your speed on downhill stretches.
- Don't hesitate to deviate from the main route to explore small ports and villages.
- If you have any problems, contact the Wakka bicycle assistance service or the emergency services (110 for police, 119 for medical).
For those wishing to extend their cycling experience, the region offers other interesting cycling routes:
- The Tobishima Kaido, less well known than the Shimanami Kaido but just as picturesque, traverses other islands in the Inland Sea. Located to the west of the Inland Sea, the two routes can be easily reached by connecting ferries. Heavenly beaches, typical Japanese houses, panoramic views of the Seto Sea... Tobishima Kaido offers a wide range of sights and wonders to discover!
- The Yumeshima Kaido, another cycling route in the region, offers complementary landscapes.