Stay in a Yurt on Naoshima

• Getting to the Yurts
• Other Accommodation on Naoshima
• Access - Getting to Naoshima

Naoshima Yurts 直島

Interior of one of the yurts on Naoshima

Naoshima, a small island in the Seto Inland Sea between Okayama and Shikoku, is world famous as an "Art Island".

Home to several world class museums and with hundreds of artworks and art installations the island is one of the major sites of the Setouchi Triennale, an international art festival held every three years on more than a dozen islands in the area.

While it is certainly possible to visit Naoshima on a day trip, at least two days are needed to be able to see everything and so an overnight stay is recommended.

At the upper end of the market, Benesse House, part of the museum complex itself, is very popular as guests get access to artwork not available to non-residents, but the island is home to dozens of hotels, guest houses, and traditional ryokan and minshuku, within a wide range of pricing.

Yurts on the beach on Naoshima at sunrise

Stay in a Mongolian Yurt

However, one of the best, and certainly most unusual options, is to stay right on the beach in a Mongolian Yurt. Located on Gotanji Bathing Beach on the southern coast of the island and right next to the main museum complex, Tsutsuji-so have ten yurts available at relatively low cost.

Technically a type of tent, the Mongolian yurt, called pao in Japanese, are circular and quite large and have wooden floors,  4 beds, electricity, and lights, plus a table and stools. In the colder months they have heaters.

Like at any campsite there are no toilets or baths inside the yurts, you need to take a short walk to reach them. Wifi may reach the yurts closer to the site's facilities.

Breakfast and dinner are available but need to be booked at least three days ahead of time. We walked ten minutes to the nearby fishing village and found a couple of eateries including a nice okonomiyaki place that had menus in English.

Getting to the Yurts

Mongolian Yurts at Tsutsuji-so on Naoshima

At night the only sound is the sea lapping against the shore, but the best thing is getting up early in the morning and walking the beach. Takamatsu is visible across the sea and at the far end of the beach is Naoshima's most iconic artwork, the giant yellow pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama, without the hordes of visitors that will soon be arriving.

At the same site are two other types of accommodation, some small caravans/camping trailers that take up to three people, and some cottages sleeping 4 to 8 people on futons. The cottages have bathrooms and toilets.

Obviously the yurts get fully booked in the busiest times of the year, but we visited on a weekday in April and many of the yurts were unoccupied. We paid 7,000 yen for the two of us, a very reasonable price.

Address

352-1 Sonota,  Naoshima-cho, Kagawa-gun, Kagawa 761-3110

Tel: 087 892 2838

A small bus from the main ferry port at Miyanoura stops right outside.

The beach in front of the yurts

Yayoi Kusama's Pumpkin near the yurts on Naoshima

Getting to Naoshima

The fastest and most convenient connection to Naoshima is from the port of Uno, about 30 km away from Okayama. Local trains and buses run between Okayama and Uno. It is a good idea to have both schedules with you as there are times when there is up to a two hour gap in train services.

Ferry to Naoshima

Train to Uno Ferry Terminal

From Okayama Station, go to Uno Station on the JR Uno Line (about 50 minutes, 580 yen one way, but Japan Rail Pass usable) via Chayamachi Station, where you may have to change trains.

Ferry to Naoshima

The Shikoku Kisen Ferry Terminal is across from the Uno Station. A car ferry goes from Uno to:

-Miyanoura Port on the west side of Naoshima Island roughly every hour from 6:10 am to 8:25 pm. It takes 20 minutes and costs 290 yen one way for adults. (A smaller passenger-only ferry also runs, but only four times a day, from 10 am to 35 minutes past midnight, and costs 1,220 yen one way but with the night run requiring a higher fare.)

-Honmura Port on the east side of Naoshima Island only five times a day, from 7:25 am to 6:35 pm. It takes 20 minutes and costs 290 yen one way for adults.

(The ferry to Seto Port in the north of Naoshima Island is not for regular passengers but only those associated with the Mitsubishi Materials copper refinery there.)

There is also a ferry from Takamatsu on Shikoku to Miyanoura Port on Naoshima. It takes about 50 minutes and costs 520 yen one way for adults.

Other Accommodation on Naoshima

You must make reservations at Benesse House in advance. You can book accommodation at Benesse House via the excellent Benesse Art Site, as well as tours and admission to the sites that require reservations. Twin rooms are between 31,185 yen and 41,580 yen per night depending on the season and location. Suites are available for between 48,510 yen and 75,075 yen. Deposits are not accepted. All charges, except admission to the Art House Project, are paid at the end of your stay.

The website allows you to create a personal itinerary that you can log into and revise anytime until your arrival date. It also suggests itineraries for one, two, and three day visits. These are invaluable for a first time visitor. The island is small, but the sites are spread out and you should allow enough time to fully appreciate the ones you visit.

There are several, mainly budget, accommodation options on the island, outside Benesse House, mainly in the form of Japanese-style inns or guest houses, such as the following.

Yado Seven Beach is simple but clean Japanese-style accommodation on the east coast of Naoshima Island and just a 10-minute walk from the ferry terminal. Spacious tatami mat rooms, microwave, fridge, washing machine and dryer available for guests, and shops nearby. Simple free breakfast.

Guest House Oomiyake is very conveniently located in the Honmura area of Naoshima on the west coast of the island, near Honmura Port and Naoshima Town Office, and just across from the Art House Project Gokaisho. An authentic old Japanese farmhouse that is now an accommodation. A lovely old hideaway that serves a great breakfast.

Mrs. Maroulla's House is a jazzily colored private house all to yourself that is cozy, private and memorably decorated, with all the facilities for a pleasant, independent stay. Located on the west coast of Naoshima about 2 km from the Naoshima Ferry Terminal. Free Wi-Fi and parking.

There are very few restaurants relative to the number of visitors to the island, and virtually none are open every day. Credit cards are not accepted outside the Benesse Corporation facilities.

The Art House Project and Chichu Art Museum are usually closed on Mondays and some Tuesdays, and all of the Benesse Corporation facilities are closed for part of the winter. Check the web site for exact dates.

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