Excursion to Yakushima: At the heart of Princess Mononoke Island 屋久島への遠足

Solo, with friends or family, excursions offer the opportunity to immerse yourself in a Japan that's off the beaten track for a few days. Departing from the country's major cities, excursions take you to remote locations for authentic experiences and memorable souvenirs. Cycle around Lake Biwa in Kyoto or around the 5 lakes of majestic Mount Fuji, take a roadtrip by car to the mystical island of Yakushima or go on the famous Shikoku pilgrimage... there's bound to be an excursion to suit you! Exceptional destinations, made easy to reach thanks to our excursions.

Lorenzo, tour and excursion designer at Japan Experience, went to Yakushima Island to create and test this adventure. Today, he takes us on a journey to the very end of Japan... Here's his account!

Day 1: Encounter with monkeys and secret sanctuaries

I decide to take a short digestive walk to discover the surrounding area, such as the verdant Yaku-jinja shrine, before picking up my rental car, which will be my most faithful companion for the next few days. I was a little apprehensive about driving for the first time. In Japan, you drive on the left and all the controls are also reversed, but once you've settled behind the wheel and after a few minutes' practice, you quickly get used to it!

The adventure can begin!

Yakushima Island is an unspoilt paradise. Over 40% of the island is actually a national park , which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993. A main road circles the island, skirting the coast, and a few small mountain roads lead inland. The heart of the island, however, can only be explored on foot. The tour takes me to my first stop, the Yahazudake Shrine, and immediately immerses us in the very essence of Yakushima Island.

Yahazudake Shrine

The entrance to this remote shrine is probably one of the most beautiful I saw on my trip. Its authentic red torii (gateway to a Shinto shrine) sits majestically. Behind it, a resplendent backdrop unfolds. The blue of the Pacific Ocean meets that of the sky in a lovely gradation, blending with the autumn leaves of the rounded mountains like an etching. Just past the torii, a staircase descends vertically into the depths of the mountain to sea level. On the way to this well-hidden sanctuary, I feel as if I've stumbled into the lair of a nature deity, whom my presence is likely to awaken!

The peaceful sound of the ocean on the horizon, together with the murmur of animals, leads me to believe that the macaques that have remained latent are discreetly watching me descend. The descent is fairly easy, and the well-marked path with its stone steps confirms that the sanctuary does see more than one stray visitor.

Around 6pm, I finally reach my hotel for a well-deserved rest. Facing a large white sandy beach, I'm warmly welcomed in a comfortable building where a traditional Japanese meal is already waiting for me at the table.

Day 2: Waterfalls and natural onsens

On the morning of this second day, the rain has fallen overnight and the still somewhat shady sky is slowly clearing. Today, I'm off to the Yokogawa Valley, one of the largest on the island. With its dense vegetation, emerald streams and waterfalls leading to crystal-clear lakes, it exudes a peaceful, unreal atmosphere. I continue my adventure in this almost imaginary land, with a visit to a succession of waterfalls in the south-east of the island. Over 60m high, the Senpiro waterfall is the largest and most massive of them all.

At this hour of the morning, only the sound of water and the murmur of wildlife accompany me on my walk. The fresh early-morning breeze caresses my face and I feel right at home here. I continue my stroll, descending the mountain as close as possible to the water, until I reach a bridge. The view is breathtaking! Sandwiched between two green mountains, the sea can be seen in the distance, with the huge waterfalls still at my back. The climb back up is more difficult than I'd imagined, as the path's steps are high. I now understand the usefulness of the pilgrim's sticks provided at the entrance to the site. I highly recommend borrowing one on arrival!

As I get back on the road, I notice the many benches facing the sea here and there, encouraging me to stop for a few moments to enjoy the view of the ocean or a pretty temple. For lunch, I stop at a small soba restaurant, which I highly recommend, not only for its soba but also for its tempura don! The atmosphere is authentically Japanese: you eat seated directly on the floor.

No sooner had we entered the thick forest together than I was struck by the striking resemblance to Studio Ghibli's work. In a fraction of a second, I'm plunged into a fairytale world. The scenery all around me, the gentle din of the flora and the wind peacefully stirring the leaves of the trees, give me the impression that at any moment I could come face to face with a kodama, a forest spirit hidden behind a huge root. These thousand-year-old cedars called Yakusugi, whose massive trunks are covered in moss, give the forest an ancient, mystical atmosphere. The hike with Maxime is great, as I learn more about the forest, but also about the whole island of Yakushima, its history and all the legends that surround it. He naturally guides me to places I might like, like this huge heart-shaped stump. It's so big you can walk inside - there's even a little altar hidden inside.

By mid-day, we reach the 1936-metre summit, finally discovering an unobstructed view of the blue sky and green peaks all around us. The return journey is peaceful, punctuated by birdsong. If you're attentive enough, you'll undoubtedly spot groups of Japanese macaques, and with a bit of luck even shika, Japanese deer, some with impressive antlers.

Tomorrow, I'll be taking the ferry back to Kyushu, feeling as though I've just returned to civilization. Yakushima is a timeless escapade, deep in Japanese culture and nature.