Iwamura Castle Town in Gifu Prefecture

Iwamura, Gifu Prefecture 岩村、岐阜県

After an earlier, happy visit to Akechi and its preserved "Taisho Mura" on the train from Ena, I really wanted to return to that picturesque part of Gifu Prefecture at the earliest opportunity.

Iwamura, five stops and 30 minutes from Ena on the historic early 20th century Akechi Railway, looked the next most interesting place to explore further.

Attractions

Iwamura is an old castle town on the northern, mountain trade route from Kyoto to Edo (Tokyo), known as the Nakasendo (中仙道). In Gifu the Nakasendo highway passes through Ena, Iwamura, Mitake and on to Magome and Tsumago.

Iwamura Castle

Iwamura Castle

Iwamura is spread out east to west in front of you as you leave the station, with the impressive stone walls of the ruined Iwamura Castle a steep, forty-minute walk up through the quiet streets to the hill above.

Nearest to the station are reminders of Iwamura's old merchant quarter, which prospered in the Edo Period (1603-1868). As you continue uphill some of the buildings are original early 20th century Meiji Period shophouses -- a pharmacy, a sake brewery, a noodle restaurant, a rice shop -- which retain their original, wooden advertising hoardings from a time when the town grew rich again, following the opening of the Akechi Railway link to Ena and Nagoya and the beginnings of a silk industry and exports to the West.

Iwamura Castle, Gifu Prefecture

The 300 year old Iwamura Shuzo Sake Brewery (342, Iwamura, Ena City, Gifu; open 9.30 am-4 pm) dates from 1787 and can be visited for free. Visitors can learn about the brewing process and purchase bottles of the company's fine "Phantom Castle" (Maboroshino-jo, 幻の城) and Onna Joshu (女城主) sake. These brands are named in honor of the castle and Toyama Otsuya (aka Onna Joshu), the aunt of Oda Nobunaga and a star of a Taiga Drama, Onna Joshu Naotora.

Toyama Otsuya was married to Toyama Kageto, a vassal of Nobunaga. In 1571, Iwamura Castle was attacked by the forces of Takeda Shingen commanded by Akiyama Nobutomo. After Toyama's sudden death during the siege, Otsuya negotiated a truce by marrying Akiyama Nobutomo and letting her adopted son (Nobunaga's fifth son, Oda Katsunaga) go as hostage to Takeda Shingen.

Nobunaga was to have a terrible revenge in 1575 when he attacked the castle and had both Onna Joshu (his own aunt) and her husband crucified upside down on the banks of the Nagara River near his base of Gifu Castle in present-day Gifu city.

Before the hike or drive up to the ruins of Iwamura Castle visit the air-conditioned History Museum, with its reconstructed Edo Period watchtower and views over the village. The museum has relocated some of its exhibits to the town below including a wooden, Edo Period notice board (高札 kosatsuba).

Iwamura lacks the crowds of the more popular Magome and Tsumago but is an interesting step back in time and an easy day-trip by train or car from Nagoya to the south west.

Akechi Railroad Train

Access - Getting There

The quickest way to reach Ena city is by JR Central Liner train on the Chuo Main Line from Nagoya Station. Then walk out of the station and turn left. The tiny Akechi Tetsudo Station is next to Ena Tourist Office. The first train from Ena to Akechi and Iwamura is at 6.48am and the last at 21.44pm on weekdays, 20.54pm at the weekend or on public holidays.

If you are driving from Nagoya take route 363 from Seto or route 11 from Toyota. Ena city is very near Ena Interchange on the Chuo Expressway, which follows the old Nakasendo post road to Magome and Tsumago at this point.

Iwamura Tourist office (above) is housed in a Meiji-era building on your left as you walk along the main street.

Take a tour of Iwamura with Voyagin

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