Saba Daishi Temple
- Published on : 12/09/2018
- by : Japan Experience
- Youtube
Saba Daishi (Yasakaji) is one of the 20 extra temples of the 88 Temples of the Shikoku Pilgrimage known as Bangai Temples.
Saba Daishi Temple 鯖大師本坊
Popularly known as Saba Daishi, this temple's official name is Yasakaji (八坂寺), the Temple of Eight Slopes.
It is not one of the 88 Temples of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, but it is one of the 20 "extra" temples of the pilgrimage known as Bangai Temples. It is not known for sure why the number of temples on the pilgrimage is 88, but with the extra 20 temples it brings the number to 108 which is a significant number in Japanese Buddhism, most commonly known as the number of earthly temptations that stand in the way of attaining nirvana. This is why temple bells are struck 108 times at New Year.
Most pilgrims just do the 88 temples, but some choose to do all 108 although that entails a longer journey as many of the Bangai Temples are some distance off the main route and entail taking detours, but as Saba Daishi is directly on the route from temple 23, Yakuoji, 20 kilometers away, to temple 24, Hotsumisaki, almost 60 kilometers away down at the tip of the peninsula, most pilgrims make a stop at Saba Daishi as well as a couple of other Bangai Temples that are on the main pilgrimage route.
Saba Daishi Temple on the coast of Tokushima
Statue of Kobo Daishi holding a mackerel (saba in Japanese)
History
The word saba in the temple's common name means mackerel, and refers to a legend about when Kobo Daishi was passing through the area.
He passed a man with a packhorse loaded down with dried mackerel and asked if he could have one. The man refused and carried on his way but soon his horse became sick and realized that it was maybe due to his having refused a holy man. He caught back up to Kobo Daishi and begged him to heal his horse, which Kobo Daishi promptly did.
This time when Kobo Daishi asked for a fish he was given one, but when he took the dried fish to the waters edge and put it in the water the fish miraculously came back to life and swam away. Seeing this the fish merchant was amazed and from that day on became a devout Buddhist. Some sources say that the story is based on the older itinerant holy man, Gyoki, who is credited with founding many of the temples on the pilgrimage that Kobo Daishi later visited.
New pagoda at Saba Daishi Temple
A tunnel leading under the main hall is lined with 88 statues representing the 88 main deities along the pilgrimage route, in essence a mini pilgrimage
Prior to the late 1940's there was just a small hermitage here, but it was converted into a full temple and added as a Bangai Temple to the pilgrimage.
There are various small halls, a fairly new pagoda, a small Inari Shrine, but the most interesting feature is a tunnel that heads beneath the main hall. Along the dimly lit descending corridor are 88 statues of the 88 deities worshiped at the 88 temples of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, so that in making your way to the underground main hall you perform a miniature version of the pilgrimage.
The temple does have a large shukubo (temple lodgings), as well as a small tsuyado (free lodgings) and there is also a minshuku nearby.
The temple is within the Yasaka Yahama area, which means "8 slopes and 8 beaches" and is just a stone's throw from a delightful beach with great coastal views.
Underneath the main hall the temple's honzon, main object of worship, is a statue of the Great Wisdom King Fudo Myoo
Saba Daishi Access
Yasakaji Temple (Saba Daishi)
Asakawa, Kaiyo, Kaifu District
Tokushima 775-0101
Tel: 0884 73 0743
The temple is a two minute walk from Sabase Station on the JR Mugi Line from Tokushima Station. Sabase Station is 25 stops from Tokushima. The journey takes just over an hour by local train and costs 1460 yen.
Located just a stone's throw from the beach, Saba Daishi has some great sea views
