Yanaka: A Stroll Through Old Tokyo

Its current landscape owes much to its history, as Yanaka was relatively spared by the 1923 earthquake and, later, by the bombings of World War II. While many neighborhoods in Tokyo have been rebuilt and transformed, Yanaka has retained its old-world charm. The best way to explore the neighborhood, then, is to wander through it at your own pace, letting your curiosity guide you as you meander from one alley to the next and stop in the small shops.

We begin this walk in Nippori, one of the gateways to Yanaka. A few minutes’ walk takes us to Yanaka-Ginza, a shopping street where much of the neighborhood’s bustle is concentrated.

Here, there are no big chain stores: the storefronts are home to butcher shops, fishmongers, candy stores, and other shops frequented by locals. It’s one of the best places in Tokyo to experience the typical atmosphere of a shotengai—these shopping streets that have long been at the heart of daily life in Japan.

As you walk down Yanaka-Ginza, let the aromas wafting from the shopfronts guide you. At Niku no Suzuki, stop to try menchi-katsu (a breaded and fried ground meat cutlet) which you can eat on the go.

For something sweeter, several shops invite you to continue your tasting tour.

Our Foodie Picks

In Yanaka, food breaks are an integral part of exploring the neighborhood! Yanaka-Ginza Street and the surrounding side streets are full of shops where you can buy local specialties to enjoy as you walk.

Start with Yanaka Senbei, a long-standing institution founded in 1913, for some crispy senbei with soy sauce.

For something sweet, Waguriya features Ibaraki chestnuts in Mont Blanc and wagashi. At Guru-Guru Gelato, treat yourself to some sakura mochi or matcha ice cream , made with milk and cream from Hokkaido. Hitotema Bakery, meanwhile, is renowned for its curry bread.

Finally, Chaya Matsuo is a great spot for kakigori topped with anko (red bean paste) or kinako-coateddango, while Jinsei Shokuhin invites you to enjoy a fruity treat with peaches and grapes sourced from various regions of Japan.

The Artisans' Quarter

After the break, the walk continues from shop to shop, exploring the craftsmanship and small businesses that give Yanaka its unique character.

At Yanaka Warakuya, glass is crafted using the shippo-yaki technique, a craft featuring colorful patterns inspired by cloisonné enamel.

In the streets around Yanaka-Ginza, the storefronts remain unassuming, making no attempt to draw attention. It is by strolling like this, from one shop to the next, that you discover everyday Yanaka.

The site is also linked to Tokyo’s history, as several prominent figures are buried there, including Tokugawa Yoshinobu, the last shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty.

While the cherry blossoms attract many visitorsin the spring, the cemetery is worth visiting year-round. Above all, it helps visitors understand why Yanaka has such a distinct character compared to the rest of Tokyo, with its temples and tombs playing a prominent role in the urban landscape.

Tennoji Temple

Near the cemetery is Tennoji Temple, one of Yanaka’s main temples. Founded during the Edo period (1603–1868), it belonged to a religious institution before gradually taking on its current form.

Its grounds feature, among other things, a large Buddha statue installed in the early 20th century. We especially recommend Tennoji as a place to stop during your walk, with its open space and a more peaceful atmosphere than that of the shopping streets.

Next, head to the Asakura Museum of Sculpture, housed in the former home of sculptor Fumio Asakura.

The building is interesting as much for its artworks as for its architecture, since the former studio, living spaces, and garden offer a glimpse into the artist’s world while allowing visitors to step inside a Tokyo home from the 1920s.

This is a must-see if you want to look beyond Yanaka’s image as a “historic neighborhood” and understand its artistic history.

In particular , you can stroll down Hebimichi, a winding street whose layout is reminiscent of Tokyo’s old alleyways. Its name literally means “snake path.”

To wrap up your walk, headover to Nezu Shrine, just a few minutes from Sendagi. Its architecture and torii-lined paths offer another glimpse into the Yanesen neighborhood.