Yanaka, The Tokyo of Old 谷中

In the alleys of Tokyo

The Yanaka neighborhood is located in northeastern Tokyo, not far from the famousUeno Park.

To get there, head to Nippori Station, accessible via the JR Yamanote Line. Bordered by the Nezu and Sendagi neighborhoods, the three areas together form what is commonly known as Yanesen, considered Tokyo’s Shitamachi—in other words, the old town or working-class neighborhood. 

In Yanaka, there are no brightly lit skyscrapers or crowded crosswalks. No, here you’ll find narrow, tree-lined alleys and a slower pace of life, all of which contribute to the change of scenery you’re looking for. For a day (or even half a day, for those in a hurry), old Tokyo and its distinctive charms will unfold before you. 

Yanaka, the Survivor

To understand its unique atmosphere, you have to look back at its history. Yanaka is a survivor of the various disasters that have struck Tokyo. Neither the successive fires of the Edo period (1603–1868), nor the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake, nor the bombings of World War II could bring this neighborhood to its knees, allowing it to retain its traditional charm of yesteryear. As a result, a few machiya (wooden houses) stand alongside more recent buildings. 

• See also: Arakawa’s Vintage Tram

A sense of serenity and intimacy emanates from these narrow alleys lined with low-rise houses, where residents go about their daily lives at a pace quite different from that of the city center. To fully enjoy this atmosphere, there’s nothing better than a walk or bike ride connecting the main points of interest!

The Other Ginza

The starting point is Yanaka Ginza Street, located just a five-minute walk from Nippori Station. Don’t be fooled—unlike the grand avenue in the Ginza district, you won’t find any luxury boutiques here! This 150-meter-long street is home to more than fifty charming little shops. From tea shops and kimono stores to the must-visit tofu shops and Japanese confectionery stores, you’ll find plenty of souvenirs here at very reasonable prices. This alley lets you gently soak up the peaceful atmosphere for which the neighborhood is famous. You’ll feel as though you’re taking part in a slice of Tokyo life, far from the usual tourist spots. 

• See also: Ameya Yokochô

To continue your tour, take the neighboring alleys to the south and retrace your steps. This will give you the chance to discover the many temples dotted throughout the neighborhood. In fact, Yanaka is also renowned for its numerous temples. The oldest, Tennoji, built in the 13th century, is famous for its statue of a seated bronze Buddha and its tree-lined park.   

Flower-Filled Cemetery

Another point of interest in the neighborhood is the Yanaka Cemetery (or Reien Yanaka), which adjoins Tennoji. Visiting a cemetery may seem surprising at first. However, Yanaka Cemetery offers a true haven of peace. More than 10 hectares of greenery await you. As you stroll through the grounds, you’re sure to come across a few friendly cats basking peacefully in the sun. 

More than 7,000 people are buried here, including several famous figures such as Yoshinobu Tokugawa (1837–1913), the last shogun of the Edo period (1604–1868). But this spot is especially popular in the spring, when people come to admire Tokyo’s cherry blossoms! In fact, its main avenue, Sakura Dori, is lined with numerous trees that proudly display their pink blossoms when the season arrives. 

An Artistic Touch

As a bonus for culture lovers, you can also make a detour to the Scai The Bathhouse gallery (Kashiwayu-Ato, 6-1-23 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo 110-0001). What makes this contemporary art gallery unique is that it was built in a former public bathhouse dating back 200 years! It offers visitors the chance to discover avant-garde Japanese artists but also serves as a showcase for foreign artists looking to make a name for themselves in Japan. It’s open Tuesday through Saturday, from noon to 6 p.m. 

Not far from there, if you’d like to rest your aching feet, step inside the Yanaka Beer Hall (2-15-6 Uenosakuragi, Taito, Tokyo 110-0002), a charming café offering a place to refuel after a busy day. 

The Yanaka neighborhood truly lives up to its nickname, “Old Tokyo.” To fully appreciate the charms of this quintessential neighborhood in the northeast of the capital, you’ll want to wander its narrow streets, mingle with the locals, and even dare to get a little lost.