Shimane Cultural Treasures

• Kaka-no-Kukedo
• Yuushien Garden
• Mihonoseki Harbor
• Aoishidatami Street
• Access

Selection of Cultural Treasures in Shimane 島根県

Greg Goodmacher

Compared to Kyoto, Osaka, and Tokyo, Shimane is an undervalued area of Japan. It is quiet, lovely, and rich with cultural heritage. Here are some of my favorite places and activities in Shimane.

The island of Old Kukedo, Shimane Prefecture

Enjoying the Kaka Kukedo Sight Seeing Tour

Tour boats from Kaka Harbor, Shimane, take visitors on a trip across a remote bay and into historic caves that are the setting of myths.

Shinto gods, the stories say, were born in this harbor. This boat tour is unique. Mysterious islands and islets stick out from the sea.

Two islands known as Kaka-no-Kukedo are the main attractions. Tour boats can sail in and out of the narrow arched-shaped entrances of the revered island known as New Kukedo. A Shinto shrine gate stands on a rock wall. Rays of light reflecting off the sea create an eerie atmosphere.

The island of Old Kukedo touched and stirred my insides. After disembarking, I walked through a dark tunnel. It led to a wave-licked cave where, for countless centuries, parents have been building cairns and praying for their departed babies.

In the Cave for Children's Souls

Incense wafts in the air. Today, evidently, parents still do this. Modern dolls, lunch boxes, and minuscule shoes lay at the feet of stone-carved Jizo statues. A Jizo is a spiritual being who protects children.

The fare is 1,500 yen for adults and 700 for elementary-school children. Depending on weather conditions, the tours leave eight times a day. The earliest departure is 9.20 am; the last is 16.20 pm.

For more information about the Kaka Kukedo Sight Seeing Tour, contact kukedo.com/guide-en

Illuminated Jizo

Yuushien Garden

Yuushien Garden is one of Japan's loveliest and most fragrant gardens.

Come and take a meandering stroll along paving stones through the grounds of the 40,000 m² garden. The splashing waterfalls, gurgling streams, reflective ponds, old-style Japanese bridges, elegantly pruned pine trees, and an almost infinite amount of colorful peonies seem dreamlike.

Japanese peonies, rhododendron, irises, and other flowers brighten the garden in spring. Summer brings camellias, crape myrtle, hydrangeas, water lilies, and others. Fiery leaves, sasanqua, and other flowers are autumn's treats. The appearance of winter irises, winter peonies, camellia, and coral brush announce the coming of winter.

Be sure to indulge in a sumptuous course of regional dishes in Shoubu, an on-site restaurant that overlooks the garden. Two unique ingredients are local ginseng and eels.

Yuushien Garden is on Daikonjima, an island that is one of only three locations in Japan where Japanese farmers grow Korean medicinal ginseng.

This stunning garden is open from 9 am-5 pm every day. Admission is 800 yen for adults. Junior and high school students pay 400 yen. For directions and other information visit www.yuushien.com and scroll down the page.

At Miho Shrine, Shimane Prefecture

The Charms of Mihonoseki Harbor

My favorite location in Shimane is Mihonoseki.

Located on the eastern side of the Shimane Peninsula, this historic port town exists undetected by the radar of mass tourism. I love Mihonoseki for its quietness, sacredness, and cultural richness.

Miho Shrine in Mihonoseki is as exotic and attractive as any of the famous shrines and temples in Tokyo or Kyoto, yet few tourists visit.

Built almost 500 years ago with traditional techniques, Miho Shrine is a cultural treasure. The Japanese Agency for Cultural Affairs declared parts of the shrine as Important Cultural Properties. The old wooden walls and intricate carvings are well maintained. Miho Shrine exemplifies beautifully preserved history.

Priests and shrine maidens today still carry out centuries-old customs. Almost every morning, shrine maidens (miko) in traditional white clothes (symbolizing purity), perform sacred dances. Shinto priests say prayers and play religious music with ancient instruments.

Does joining in morning offerings sound appealing? To participate, contact the Mihonoseki Tourism Association Office (0852 73 9001) in advance. Hotel or ryokan staff in Mihonoseki will assist you.

Miho Shrine is dedicated to the smiling, music-loving god of commerce and fishing named Ebisu. Approximately three thousand shrines across Japan are Ebisu Shrines. Miho Shrine is the main or leading Ebisu Shrine.

Another unique feature of the shrine is its rare collection of approximately 900 musical instruments.

Parishioners have been donating instruments as offerings to Ebisu for centuries. The collection includes ancient instruments that are specific to Japanese cultural genres, such as Noh and Kabuki, as well as rare European music boxes and accordions. The music collection is usually open for viewing on the seventh day of each month.

Full course Japanese dinner at Mihokan, Shimane Prefecture

Mihokan, an atmospheric 17th-century inn, is a great place to stay. The building is listed as an Important Cultural Property. The proprietress wears an elegant kimono.

The inn provides impeccable Japanese service and fantastic seafood to diners. Dining rooms contain gorgeous scrolls, pottery, and ikebana arrangements. From rooms, guests enjoy views of the sea and the fishing community. In the early morning, you may see fishing boats bringing their catch to the pier. Mihokan is on historic Aoishidatami Street.

Morning, Aoishidatami Street, Shimane Prefecture

Aoishidatami Street

Aoishidatami Street is a quaint and quiet narrow lane of blue cobblestones that stretches between Miho Shrine and Bukkoku Temple. At night, the street lights up with small lanterns. You might feel that you are walking in the past as you stroll by wooden homes and shops. If you encounter an open shop in the evening, it will probably be Fukuda Liquor Store.

Fukuda Liquor Store is a tachinomiya. Tachinomiyas are liquor shops which provide space for drinking and chatting but do not officially provide seating. Customers usually stand or sit on cases of beer.

Tachinomiyas are perfect for drinkers on a budget or tourists wanting to drink up old Japanese customs in a relaxed environment. The friendly shop owners decorated the small store with retro-style curios from the past.

Bukkoku-ji Temple is also close to Miho Shrine. Bukkoku-ji Temple holds five rare wooden Buddhist statues that are approximately 1,000 years old. The government designated them as important national assets.

Prayers at Miho Shrine, Shimane Prefecture

Access - Getting to Mihonoseki

Mihonoseki Harbour is 30 kilometers from downtown Matsue. Take an Ichibata Bus from JR Matsue Station.

Change buses at Mihonoseki Bus Terminal; board a Mihonoseki Community Bus (Tel: 0852 72 3119). Transportation time is roughly 80 minutes.

The author of this article blogs about Japanese hot springs. hotspringaddict.blogspot.com

Kaka-no-Kukedo, Shimane Prefecture