Discover Kumamoto

Kumamoto and its cultural treasures

Capital of the eponymous prefecture, Kumamoto is nestled between the Ariake Inland Sea and the Aso volcanic massif. With a population of over 700,000, it developed in the Middle Ages during the clan wars and enjoyed a period of prosperity during the Edo period (1603-1868). Although often considered a stopover town, Kumamoto is well worth a visit to discover its cultural riches.

Another must-see treasure is the Suizen-ji Joju-en garden. This traditional Japanese garden is unique in that it represents the Tokaido, the ancient road that linked Edo (Tokyo) to Kyoto. It features a miniature replica of Mount Fuji and Lake Biwa, creating a landscape of perfect harmony.

For history and literature buffs, Kumamoto has been home to many illustrious figures. The samurai Musashi Miyamoto (1584-1645), author of the famous Treatise of the Five Wheels, lived here, and the Reigando cave where he is said to have written his work can be visited. The town was also home to novelists Natsume Sôseki and Lafcadio Hearn, whose homes are open to the public.

Mount Aso: discover Japan's largest active volcano

Mount Aso is the star attraction of Kumamoto Prefecture. Japan's largest active volcano, it rises to a height of 1,592 metres and is actually a volcanic complex comprising some fifteen volcanic cones. Its caldera, formed by ancient eruptions, is one of the largest in the world, stretching 25 km from north to south and 17 km from east to west.

The main peaks - Naka-dake, Taka-dake, Neko-dake, Kijima-dake and Eboshi-dake - offer ideal terrain for hikers eager for grandiose landscapes. The most active, Naka-dake, with its 600-meter-diameter, 160-meter-deep crater, is home to a fascinating blue acid lake. However, access to the crater may be temporarily prohibited due to sulphurous gas emissions.

The vast Kusasenri-ga-hama plain, located in the caldera, presents a breathtaking visual spectacle with its grassy expanses where horses and cows graze. Activities such as horse riding, paragliding, cycling and even helicopter flights allow you to discover this volcanic landscape from different angles. To complete the visit, the Aso Volcano Museum offers detailed information on the volcano's formation and activity.

The Aso region is also renowned for its many thermal springs nestled in wild valleys. Spa villages such as Uchinomaki Onsen offer a relaxing break after exploring the volcano. To the east of the massif, in the neighbouring prefectures of Miyazaki and Oita, the village of Takachiho is the cradle of ancestral traditions such as kagura dance, and is home to the mystical Kamishikimi Kumano Imasu shrine, whose atmosphere is reminiscent of Studio Ghibli films.

Kurokawa Onsen and Takefue: the ultimate Japanese hot spring experience

Among Japan's many spa villages, Kurokawa stands out for its authenticity and unspoiled charm. Nestled in an exceptional natural setting, this village boasts some 30 establishments offering top-quality onsen (hot springs). The ryokans (traditional inns) that line the winding river running through the village offer picturesque views of the water and surrounding vegetation.

The typically Japanese ambience of Kurokawa Onsen's alleyways transports visitors out of time. To facilitate discovery of the various baths, a 1300 yen (approx. €10) pass gives access to a choice of three onsen. This formula is ideal for those who want to enjoy the hot springs for a day without necessarily staying in a ryokan.

Near Kurokawa is Takefue, considered by many to be the pinnacle of the Japanese onsen experience. This exceptional ryokan, set in the heart of a bamboo forest, offers incomparable service: unlimited drinks and sake, personalized gifts for each guest, gourmet meals and private baths fed by natural springs. Although the price is substantial (between 40,000 and 80,000 yen per night), the unique experience in this dreamlike setting justifies the investment for lovers of authentic luxury.

Other establishments such as Tarutama also offer memorable experiences in unspoilt natural settings. Spring water in this region, often rich in minerals such as metasilicic acid, is renowned for its healing and relaxing properties. The temperature and composition of the water vary from one establishment to another, allowing you to discover different sensations while bathing.

Explore unspoilt nature: the Kikuchi Valley and surrounding countryside

The Kikuchi Valley, located a short distance from Kumamoto city, offers an exceptional natural environment ideal for hikers and nature lovers. This 4-kilometre-long valley is traversed by the underground Aso Gairinzan River, also known as the Kikuchi Spring and recognized as one of the 100 best waters in Japan. With a temperature not exceeding 13°C in summer, this spring is an ideal place to cool off in the hot season.

Hiking trails criss-cross the valley, allowing you to explore its rich biodiversity. More than 50 species of wild birds can be observed, notably on the "Place de la Forêt" or the "Place des Oiseaux Sauvages", making this a popular spot for birdwatchers. The striking contrast between the clear stream running over large rocks and the broad-leaved trees creates a landscape of spellbinding beauty.

Not far away, the town of Kikuchi is known for its cosmetic onsen and magnificent waterfalls. Among the most spectacular are the Yonjusanman, Tengu and Kakemaku waterfalls. In winter, these waterfalls can freeze, offering a fascinating natural spectacle. The region is also home to several thermal springs whose waters are renowned for their beautifying properties, earning them the nickname "make-up onsen" or "cosmetic onsen".

Further south in the prefecture, the town of Hitoyoshi, an ancient fortified city, and the Asagiri countryside offer an authentic glimpse of Japanese rural life. The ruins of Hitoyoshi castle, the Aoi Aso-jinja shrine and the Sengetsu Shuzo shochu distillery bear witness to the region's rich past. In Asagiri, you can even enjoy the unique experience of staying with Japanese farmers in century-old traditional houses, taking part in daily farm chores such as harvesting vegetables.

The Amakusa Islands: between spirituality and dolphin watching

Located to the west of Kumamoto prefecture, the Amakusa Islands form an archipelago made up of two large islands (Ueshima and Shimoshima) and dozens of smaller islands. This isolated territory offers a striking contrast with the rest of the prefecture, and is a destination in its own right for travellers in search of authenticity and natural beauty.

Amakusa's history is closely linked to Christianity. Due to its proximity to Nagasaki, the first point of entry for foreign missionaries into Japan, Amakusa became one of the country's main Christian centers at a time when this religion was forbidden. The region was the scene of the Shimabara Rebellion (1637-1638), an uprising of Christian peasants led by Amakusa Shiro, a 16-year-old teenager who became a hero. Despite the rebels' defeat and subsequent persecution, many Christians remained in Amakusa, making it one of the most Christian regions in Japan.

Today, visitors can discover this fascinating history through several remarkable sites. The Myotokuji temple, built in 1645 in an attempt to convert Christians to Buddhism, is packed with hidden Christian symbols, testifying to the resistance of the believers. Oe Cathedral, built in 1933 in the Romanesque style, and Sakitsu Church, built in 1934 with Gothic architecture but a partially tatami-covered interior, perfectly illustrate this unique blend of cultures. The latter building has been nominated for UNESCO World Heritage listing.

Beyond its spiritual heritage, Amakusa today is best known for its maritime activities and the wild dolphins that inhabit its waters. Numerous companies offer cruises to observe these marine mammals, with a success rate close to 98%. The archipelago also offers magnificent beaches, thermal springs and a variety of aquatic activities such as fishing, scuba diving and snorkeling. The island of Goshoura, nicknamed "Dinosaur Island", abounds in museums and fossil deposits, while the islands of Tsukinoshima and Hogashima offer glass-bottom boat excursions.

Flavours of Kumamoto: culinary highlights

Kumamoto's gastronomy reflects the richness of its terroirs and the diversity of its influences. Benefiting from a mild climate and fertile plains, the prefecture produces a variety of renowned agricultural products that are an integral part of its culinary scene. Among its most emblematic specialties is Karashi Renkon, a unique dish that is hard to find elsewhere in Japan. It consists of a boiled lotus root, stuffed with a mixture of spicy Japanese mustard and miso, then fried in a light batter. This dish, whose origins date back to the 16th century, offers a delicious contrast between the crispy exterior and the tender, spicy filling.

Lovers of ramen will not want to miss Kumamoto Ramen, whose tonkotsu broth (made from pork bones) is thicker than elsewhere, with roasted and grated garlic. The noodles, thicker than in a classic ramen, blend perfectly with this tasty, slightly sweet broth. Another locally adapted Chinese specialty is Taipiien, a vermicelli soup originating in the Chinese city of Fuzhou, which in Japan is found only in Kumamoto.

The prefecture is also renowned for its horsemeat, of which Kumamoto is the country's leading producer. Basashi, horse sashimi, is particularly prized. This meat, nicknamed "cherry meat" in Japan, is appreciated for its nutritional qualities: rich in vitamins and minerals, but low in calories and cholesterol. It can be enjoyed in a variety of forms: raw, nabe, sushi or grilled. For beef lovers, Aka Ushi (red beef) raised in the wide open spaces of Aso offers lean but tasty meat, often served as curry or donburi.

Sweet treats are not to be outdone with Ikinari Dango, a traditional sweet potato and red bean pastry wrapped in a steamed flour or glutinous rice dough. Its name, which means "unexpected", refers to the surprise of discovering the sweet potato inside. As for drinks, Kuma Shochu, a local sweet potato-based spirit, is the perfect complement to a traditional meal. Fruits such as Kumamoto tomatoes, watermelons and melons also enjoy an excellent reputation, often associated with Kumamon, the famous red-cheeked black mascot that symbolizes the prefecture.

Practical tips for organizing your stay in Kumamoto

To make the most of your stay in Kumamoto, a few practical tips are in order. The best time to visit is in spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November), when temperatures are pleasant and rainfall moderate. Autumn is particularly recommended, with average temperatures between 11°C and 24°C, low rainfall and warmly-colored landscapes. Spring offers the spectacle of cherry blossom, particularly in Kumamoto Castle Park.

As far as transport is concerned, visit Kumamoto and the surrounding area by renting a car! This option is highly recommended, as public transport doesn't provide easy access to the prefecture's various points of interest. To rent a car, you simply need to have your French driver's license translated, a process that costs around 2,000 yen (€15) and takes an hour. If you prefer public transport, Kumamoto station is served by the Shinkansen (high-speed train) from Fukuoka (40-minute journey, included in the JR Pass). Domestic flights also connect Kumamoto with Osaka (1h10) and Tokyo (1h45).

To get around downtown Kumamoto, the tramway is a practical and economical way to get around. A fixed fare of ¥180 per trip applies, and a ¥500 day pass allows an unlimited number of trips. The Shiromegurin sightseeing bus, which runs around the castle and surrounding tourist sites, is also an interesting option, with a 500 yen day pass.

As for accommodation, Kumamoto offers a wide range of options, from modern hotels to traditional ryokans. For an authentic experience, a stay in one of the Kurokawa Onsen ryokans is highly recommended. If you prefer to stay in town, there are several quality establishments close to the railway station or castle. For the more adventurous, homestays in rural areas such as Asagiri offer total immersion in the local culture.

Finally, bear in mind that some sites, such as Mount Aso, may be temporarily closed due to volcanic activity. It is therefore advisable to check access conditions before planning your visit. Despite the 2016 earthquakes, Kumamoto today is perfectly safe for tourists, with functional transport and well-stocked shops.